Faux York: April Bloomfield’s Deviled Eggs

 A few weeks ago, I announced my initiative to recreate some of my favorite dishes from my time in New York. My first go wasn’t even a favorite dish. It was an unholy marriage of jelly and crackers suggested by the brain who brought forth some of my favorite dishes (for those who missed it, my Ritz cracker, grape jelly icebox cake). Since then, I’ve made a couple attempts at recreations, and they failed in a big way.

This project of mine is off to a great start.
I finally got a good one! In the West Village is April Bloomfield’s restaurant, The Spotted Pig. While I’ve never been less than enamored with any entree I order, her deviled eggs are always my favorite.

And guys, I’m kind of a deviled egg expert. Egg-spert if you will, though I sense most of you won’t. Growing up, I was always put in charge of making the deviled eggs. It may have been because I couldn’t make anything else, but it was most likely because I make a mean deviled egg.

And as a renowned deviled egg-spert (it’s great!), you can trust me when I say: these deviled eggs are really good, but how does she do it? Every deviled egg recipe follows a basic formula (mayo, mustard, and yolks meets salt and pepper), so what does she do that’s so different?

Fast forward a few years. I’m looking for pressure cooker recipes that don’t sound like a lot of pressure (I am on fire today!), when I stumble upon a recipe for Bloomfield’s deviled eggs. 

Let’s do this thing.

Ingredients:

  • 6 eggs
  • 3 tablespoons mayo
  • 1 tablespoon champagne vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon creme fraiche
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • Sea salt
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped chervil
  • Paprika
  • Olive Oil

The Shopping

  • What the recipe says: Get chervil
  • What I say: What’s chervil?

The Eggs

  • What the recipe says: Fill a medium pot at least halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat…..
  • What I say: Fill a pot with water, and try to bring it to a boil, but get impatient, and stick the eggs in early. Then forget they’re in there for the next 20 minutes.

The Filling

No good way to make deviled egg filling look appetizing. 

  • What the recipe says: Scoop the yolks into a small food processor. Add the mayonnaise….
  • What I say: Dump all the filling ingredients (yolks, mayo, mustard, creme fraiche, vinegar, spices) into a bowl and mash it with a fork. Realize that’s not working at get out your handheld mixer.

The Assembly

  • What the recipe says: Top each egg with a prickle of the chives and chervil and a dusting of cayenne.
  • What I say: I never did figure out chervil. Now we’ll never know.


The Review: As someone who has used the same formula for deviled eggs for roughly 15 years, adding the creme fraiche and champagne vinegar tastes positively exotic. The recipe is pretty rich, however. The next time I do this, I would probably cut down on the mayo and add a little more vinegar to cut through the heaviness. In general, though, the recipe tastes pretty true to its source material.

 

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